Don't Panic

For those of you who may not be aware, the words “Don’t Panic”, written in large friendly letters, are found on the cover of The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. “Don’t Panic” provides all the instruction any traveler needs to negotiate the next unknown event. A second word from the Hitchhiker’s series having particular meaning in the Johnson family is “Belgium”, the most unspeakably rude word in the universe. It’s ironic that The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, a work of fantastic fiction, contains two absolutely true references to my life.  For the last 10 years Dan and the boys tell a story of tremendous embarrassment for me as they relay the events around the irrational panic I experienced during a border crossing into Belgium. It’s time for me to own it.

The Belgium Incident, as it is recalled in Johnson family lore, is the most extreme example of my difficulty crossing a border. Sadly, there are more examples, but this blog is about Belgium.  In July 2001 we took a trip to Europe. Thanks to an inheritance from my grandpa I was able to put together a 15-day planes, trains and automobiles vacation. We’d land in London for a few days of sightseeing, take trains to Amsterdam where we’d spend a few days, followed by another train to Cologne where we’d pick up a rental car and drive to Munich, ending with the flight home.

Off we went. We had much fun in London once we got past the microscopic hotel rooms, “beam me up Scotty elevators”, mad-cow warnings and the total lack of showers and air conditioning during an unseasonably hot summer. Oh, and just an FYI, celebrating the fourth of July in London is a real faux-pas.  Finished with London we boarded the Eurostar, a fast train through the Chunnel to Brussels and a connecting train to Amsterdam.

Now I must tell you, until the recent acquisition of GPS, I have been the navigator in the family. I read maps with incredible accuracy. I can get from A to B via the straightest or most circuitous route possible, your choice. I know that all roads lead to Disneyworld and I was not at all concerned about navigation in Europe. My family was depending on me to get them seamlessly from point A to point B. 

After what felt like a many hour delay, but was probably 45-minutes the Eurostar left London for Brussels. I knew we would have a tight connection to pick-up the train for Amsterdam. As I obsessed about the unexpected lost time the first prickling of panic began to set in. When the train arrived in Belgium we were down to less than 15-minutes to make the connection. I needed to find the appropriate platform and the next train. It never occurred to me that we had just entered another country, an awareness that dawned when every sign was NOT IN ENGLISH. Yes, I was now in full on ugly American mode. 

I finally spotted a sign with the logo for Thalys, the brand of the connecting train, on an elevator with a single button. OK I inferred, we need to go DOWN as UP was not an option. (Insert accelerated breathing and increased heart rate.)  I looked around and spotted an escalator-type ramp, no stairs, just a ramp and it wasn’t moving. With family in tow I proceeded down the ramp, which suddenly turned on and began to move in the wrong direction. I started running to compensate and the family followed.

We found ourselves in a room with frosted glass walls and doors and we could see a lot of people moving on the other side. Dan stepped up and with little difficulty pulled the glass doors open. We walked through and simultaneously a few people came through from the other side. Success! Our next stop would be the correct platform. I showed our tickets to a confused looking man in a uniform. He pointed up--the direction from which we just came. Tick-tock--time was running out. 

We jumped on another elevator and when the doors opened there stood a uniformed man and a woman with a walkie-talkie. She asked us, in English (somehow she knew) if we had "forced open the doors" downstairs. At this point I stepped back and deferred to Dan as the family spokesperson, because I CAN NOT tell a lie. Dan said “no, we are just trying to get to our train.” “Follow-me” she said, walking to another elevator. It soon became clear that she was not going to take us to the correct platform.

As our little group descended into the bowels of the train station my panic rose. What had I done? We found ourselves in the security office. I wouldn’t call it an interrogation, probably due to the presence of our teenage sons, but we were questioned. Dan held up admirably. I sat with my stomach in my throat, positively nauseous. Carl and Hunter sat in chairs with the smug confidence of children who knew that the worst outcome was they’d be sent home early and alone to the loving arms of sane relatives, happily liberated from their mom’s idea of a fun family vacation.  

The woman asked Dan if he had opened the locked doors. Dan replied "of course not. You can't open a locked door". Once she translated this into French or whatever, both the pitch and volume of the conversation increased by about 30%. An older officer took charge and accused Dan of prying the doors open. Dan just shook his head no and pantomimed doors sliding easily open. Two younger guards stood at the back of the room and smiled. The entire episode ended less than an hour later, when the officer angrily stamped our passports and escorted us to an outbound train. They were more than happy to take us to the train for Amsterdam. And because we had missed our earlier reservations they had the perfect excuse to put us on a train that had been converted from hauling cattle earlier that week.  

By comparison the rest of the trip was uneventful. Dan, alone in the rental car, lost his way on the autobahn convinced that “Ausfahrt” was the largest unknown city in Germany. Hunter put four years of German language classes to work ordering ice cream treats in Bonn. Carl managed to get reasonable directions from a deaf gas station attendant in Frankfurt who only lip-read German. I was able to convince Dan that “living the dream” did not include sitting day after day on a bench begging for beer money in Heidelberg. We found our hotel in Stuttgart despite the fact that it was in the middle of a pedestrian mall. We all survived the drive from Mannheim to Munich when a tire on the rental car exploded at over 100-kph. And we managed to convince the incredulous airline ticket agent that we absolutely did not want to take a bump and stay another day, no matter how many thousands worth of incentives they threw our way.

Of course, from the moment we were on the train to Amsterdam and throughout the balance of the trip I tried to negotiate a “what happens in Belgium stays in Belgium” pact. Dan and the boys would have none of it. Since 2001 I’ve been to Belgium several times, at the behest of my employer. I still panic a bit when I travel there and I can’t help but think it is the most unspeakably awful destination there is. Happily the border guards do not have my picture on file and I’m free to conduct business in Belgium. Don't panic. 

Moving to Key West? No problem. No border.